When Is the Best Time to Prune Your Trees?

SO, WHEN SHOULD YOU PRUNE A TREE?

For many trees, pruning is best carried out when they aren’t putting all their energy into vigorous new growth.

That can make the cooler months a good opportunity for pruning some deciduous trees. Once the leaves have dropped, it can also be much easier to see the overall branch structure and identify crossing, damaged or poorly positioned limbs.

But winter isn’t automatically the right answer for every tree.

Different species respond differently to pruning, which is why it pays to know what tree you’re dealing with before you start cutting.

The reason for pruning matters too. Routine shaping can often wait for an appropriate season. A dangerous broken branch usually can’t.

WHY PRUNE TREES IN THE FIRST PLACE?

Good pruning shouldn’t simply be about making a tree smaller. There should be a reason for every cut.

Pruning can be used to:

• Remove dead, damaged or diseased branches.
• Remove branches that cross or rub against each other.
• Improve the structure of younger trees.
• Maintain clearance from buildings, driveways and accessways.
• Manage excessive or poorly positioned growth.
• Reduce problems caused by damaged or weak limbs.
• Maintain the natural form and appearance of a tree.

The aim is not to remove as much growth as possible. It’s to make considered cuts that leave the tree in a better position than it was before.

WHAT ABOUT DEAD OR DANGEROUS BRANCHES?

When safety is involved, you don’t necessarily wait for the ideal pruning season.

A broken limb hanging over a driveway, storm-damaged branch or large piece of deadwood above an area regularly used by people should be assessed based on the risk it presents.

That does not mean grabbing a ladder and chainsaw yourself.

If a branch is large enough to injure someone, damage a building or behave unpredictably when it is cut, it’s worth getting professional advice.

WHAT CAN YOU SAFELY PRUNE YOURSELF?

There’s nothing wrong with homeowners carrying out small, straightforward pruning from ground level when they know what they’re cutting.

That could include small dead twigs, light shaping or minor branches that can comfortably be reached without climbing.

It’s probably time to stop and call an arborist when the job involves:

• Ladders.
• Chainsaws at height.
• Large or heavy branches.
• Limbs above buildings or vehicles.
• Trees close to powerlines.
• Significant storm damage.
• Leaning or unstable trees.
• Cuts you simply aren’t sure about.

If you’re standing underneath it thinking, “That could go badly if it falls the wrong way,” that’s a pretty good indication the job has moved beyond simple garden maintenance.

DON’T PRUNE JUST BECAUSE A TREE LOOKS TOO BIG

One common mistake is deciding that because a tree is large, a large amount needs to come off it.

More pruning isn’t necessarily better.

A mature tree has developed its structure over many years, and major pruning should have a purpose rather than simply cutting the canopy back indiscriminately.

If a tree has become too large for its location, is interfering with buildings or you’re concerned about its safety, it makes sense to assess the whole tree before deciding what should be removed.

Sometimes selective pruning is the answer. Sometimes ongoing tree maintenance is more appropriate. And sometimes tree removal really is the sensible option.

WHAT ABOUT PRUNING AFTER STORMS?

South Auckland gets its share of wind and rough weather, and storms can expose weaknesses that weren’t obvious beforehand.

After significant weather, look at your trees from a safe distance and check whether anything has noticeably changed.

Things to look for include:

• Freshly broken branches.
• Hanging limbs.
• New cracks or splits.
• Branches resting on buildings or structures.
• A tree that appears to be leaning differently.
• Movement or disturbance around the roots.

Avoid standing directly beneath damaged limbs while inspecting them. A branch that stayed in the tree during the storm won’t necessarily stay there afterwards.

If you’re unsure, get it checked.

WHAT ABOUT FRUIT TREES?

Fruit trees are a good example of why there isn’t a universal pruning calendar.

Different varieties can require different approaches and pruning times, particularly when you compare stone fruit with pip fruit.

The age of the tree, whether it is actively producing fruit and what you’re trying to achieve can all affect the best approach.

So before attacking an unfamiliar fruit tree, identify what it is first.

THE BEST TIME TO START IS BEFORE THERE’S A PROBLEM

Tree maintenance is much easier when it’s planned rather than left until a branch is hanging over the roof or the tree has become badly overgrown.

Keep an eye out for changes such as:

• Dead branches appearing in the canopy.
• Branches rubbing or crossing.
• Damage after storms.
• Significant changes in shape.
• Cracks or splits.
• Growth beginning to interfere with buildings or access.

You don’t need to become a tree expert. You just need to notice when something has changed.